"The Historic Jean Bonnet Tavern" In the morning I sip coffee with my feet propped on the railing of the second-floor balcony of the Historic Jean Bonnet Tavern, where I spent the night in a hard cot wrapped in sheets the color of apple pie. Zip ties hoist a flag bunting beneath the rail. It’s the Fourth of July, and already baking out. My seat overlooks two highways: the two-lane U.S. Route 30 and the four-lane Interstate 70. Freight trucks trundle past. In the 1760s, colonists could walk a dirt path across what is now called Pennsylvania, and— according to a paragraph on the back of the menu— see the lamplit Tavern arise from the darkened hills and waver like a spring on the horizon, taste the promise of golden ale. As I sit, a Fedex truck jake-brakes having spotted a perched police cruiser. A straightpiped Civic downshifts away a flock of sparrows as the leathered-up Harley couples roll in for lunch. At the next balcony over, someone is smoking a cigarette. A stiff gust blows past and snaps the zip tied bunting free. As the flag flies over the parking lot, I can almost see the eroded travelers, their staunch woolen coats, the conviction they cradled like lace. The smoke dissipates. Perched on the powerlines, the sparrows return.

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