"In the Pyrenees" If you hanker for Romanesque churches with sculpted portals, cloisters where every column is topped by fine-crafted figures animating cold stone in scenes from a distant Medieval world where sacred and profane, saint and drunken reveler, meet face to face—then drive to the Valley of Aran, remote a thousand years until a tunnel cut through rugged mountains. In each town an ancient church earth-bound by heavy stones, a bell tower rising to the sky. Above the altar a flaking frescoe of a seated Christ Pantocrator holds the world in one hand. In the valley you confront tortuous drives to rustic towns clinging to its flanks, narrow streets lead to arcaded plazas, one dead-ended at a fancy spa. Although a pricy Parador served swordfish tasting like cardboard dipped in orange juice, Catalan cuisine is justly celebrated. In the tiny town of Meranges we dined at Can Borrell, a five- star restaurant tucked away at the end of a scenic valley. I had black sausage and beans, Civet d’Isart [venison stew], a Raimat cabernet. The chef’s grace note sautéd mushrooms plucked from the mountainside. If you travel in the Pyrenees and savor good food, prepare to change plans and stay another night (my choice rabbit in pear sauce), vow to return next year

William Heath has published two books of poetry, The Walking Man and Steel Valley Elegy; two chapbooks, Night Moves in Ohio and Leaving Seville; three novels, The Children Bob Moses Led (winner of the Hackney Award), Devil Dancer, and Blacksnake’s Path; a work of history, William Wells and the Struggle for the Old Northwest (winner of two Spur Awards); and a collection of interviews, Conversations with Robert Stone. www.williamheathbooks.com